High brands fashion What Louis Vuitton, Prada e Gucci, in which simple knit shirts cost no less than four digits, are extrapolating the previously elitist catwalks and marking their presence on platforms whose largest audience is young people who have just left their teens, who do not even have a credit card.
You earn little, but would you like to start saving money and investing? Learn from EXAME Academy
The presence of brands on Instagram accounts, videogames and videos from TikTok it is getting more common than the cards of the guests in the disputed lines of the parades of the fashion weeks – the current season of womenswear, by the way, started last week in New York, is currently in London and ends on March 9 in Paris.
Most of the parades of last year’s seasons and this one have now taken place without the presence of the public, only with online transmission. While the live performances are emptied, the clothes of the big brands appear strongly in the pixels and algorithms of the digital platforms – largely for a new audience, it is worth reinforcing.
What is the strategy of these brands? We will try to explain below.
Challenges in TikTok
The debate between brands and the public has always happened through parades during fashion weeks, with the coverage of specialized vehicles. Things have changed with the arrival of social networks. Mobile applications have expanded the communication channel with the younger audience.
“It is important to have a strong presence on social networks because more and more young people are heard at home when making a purchase decision. Parents want to hear from their children what is cool today ”, says the Brazilian executive of an Italian brand, who is not authorized by the matrix to give interviews.
Instagram was the main channel for brands to leave the catwalks installed on the nave of the Grand Palais de Paris or the pages of Vogue. All the big brands created their accounts there. An exception was Bottega Veneta, which deleted its Instagram, Facebook and Twitter accounts earlier this year.
The brand did not comment and it is not known if the strategy is to try to rescue the aura of exclusivity that has always guided this market. But the fact is that his presence on social media continued through his influencers, like Kylie Jenner. Only one celebrity post with a branded dress for Christmas earned more than 9 million likes.
Outside of Instagram, another, younger and more dynamic social network has attracted the eyes of fashionistas: TikTok. The platform created #TikTokFashionMonth, a kind of fashion week of its own, with broadcasts of fashion shows and live performances, which has had over 3.4 billion views – far more than the approximately 30 guests who used to compete for the best lines of a traditional fashion week, let’s face it.
The brands are all there. In the #GucciModelChallenge challenge, with almost 200 million views, followers post looks with the brand’s clothes, or simply inspired by the brand, with the aesthetics of the thrift store by stylist Alesandro Michelle.
The challenge model usually has a lot of grip. At #Burberrychallenge, with 5 million views, fans of the brand appear fans of the brand doing little dances dressed in the iconic trench coat. At #Pradachallenge, with almost 20 million views, young people teach how to dress like a model of the Italian brand. Dolce & Gabbana even had the participation of Brazilian Maísa in its challenges.
There are also more sober presences in TikTok. Balmain went live with the Balmain Sur Seine fashion show, filmed on the River Seine, in France, for the first all-digital edition of the Paris Fashion Week. The traditional Dior also presented a live on the network with the new women’s spring-summer collection 2021.
The pandemic has accelerated the flight of fashion towards digital platforms. The parades have taken place, but without an audience, broadcast online. Many more people watch, and the fashion critics’ filter loses importance. And since it is to go to the virtual universe, let it be the planet with more young people, more eager for light and choreographed content.
And in terms of youth, it is difficult to compete with the video game. Virtual games are increasingly on the rise, due to the pandemic as well, but largely because of the ever greater possibilities for interaction. The music industry was the first to notice this movement. But the fashion world was not left behind. The presence can be felt both in traditional games and in games specially developed by the brands.
In League of Legends, considered the most played game in the world, the Louis Vuitton monogram, epitome of high luxury, is in the so-called skins, or clothes of the characters. Nicolas Ghesquière, creative director of the maison’s women’s lines, developed a special version of the Prestige skin for the characters Qiyana and Sienna.
The partnership goes for the real world. The brand signed a partnership with Riot Games to create a special line of clothing for the game. The capsule collection designed by Ghesquière includes leather goods, ready-to-wear items, shoes and accessories. There are 30 pieces, ranging from 935 to 24,600 reais.
Gucci, trendy brand of the moment, also dresses the virtual players of Tennis Clash. The stylized G letters are on the rackets, on the tracksuits, on the shorts and even on the headboards, an accessory on the rise in the 1970s but in disuse today – a feature consistent with the brand’s positioning, which bets on a retro aesthetic.
The same Gucci, it is worth saying, made a partnership that is being talked about a lot with the outwear brand The North Face, that of the nylon wraps that was conventionally called puff. This association of the real world also appears in Pokémon Go, a game allowed for users from 9 years old.
In the same Pokémon Go the characters can be seen with backpacks from Longchamp. The augmented reality game also shows the presence of pieces, bags and perfumes of brands of the size of Chanel, Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, Balmain, Alexander Wang.
The contradiction of fashion
The fashion industry feeds on a paradox. Its fuel is youth. Cultural movements are forged by the restlessness of new generations. From androgyny to punk, from yuppies to hipsters, the demonstrations end up mirrored on the catwalks and end in the stores’ racks – however, in the form of expensive fabric pieces, sophisticated cuts and heavy signatures.
The consumers of this high fashion are not the young people who lead the social changes and who also lend their bodies in the fashion week parades. They are established professionals with good purchasing power. After all, who can afford a Chanel dress or a Prada shoe? It is certainly not the clubber, nor the activist.
But this freshness is the appeal to the older consumer, with access to expensive products. It is human behavior to want to feel younger, to look younger, to feel more distant from the finitude of life. Youth is attuned to the voices on the street. This is the bridge between the fashion audience and the discussions of the moment.
Recently, what we have seen in this market, previously quite exclusive, is a welcome acceptance of bodies and skins. Parades increasingly include black and LGBTQI + models. The reason is quite pragmatic: it is a response from the market to the chorus of society.
Likewise, there is no longer a brand that is refractory to sustainable models. Brands like Burberry used to burn stranded pieces in the past so they wouldn’t melt. Last year, the British brand launched the ReBurberry label, with pieces made from recycled fabrics. Do organic wool jackets and dresses dress better? They may even fit well in the body, but the reason for the choice is different.
Diversity and sustainability are on the rise. They are messages and values spread in all media, mainly digital. Brands in general are practicing and appropriating this discourse and making their presence felt on social networks. It is no different with fashion.
The truth is that, if the consumer wants to have access to his favorite brand, the physical store has long ceased to be the only option.
From 0 to 10 how much would you recommend Examination to a friend or relative?
Clicking on one of the numbers above and finishing your evaluation will help us to improve even more.